Santa Maria : Mexico
Discover Santa Maria, Chiapas: A Journey Through Culture and Cuisine
Join Lisa and me as we embark on a vibrant journey through the heart of Santa Maria, Chiapas, Mexico. This enchanting city, nestled in the southern part of the country, beautifully showcases Mexico’s rich cultural heritage. With unique cuisine and lively festivals, Santa Maria is a destination that should not be missed.
The flavor of Chiapas
Our adventure began with the irresistible aroma of traditional Chiapan cuisine wafting through the streets. Drawn to a bustling market, we couldn’t resist the allure of “Tamal de Chipilín,” a tamale made with chipilín leaves and corn dough. Lisa and I were immediately hooked. “This is a gastronomic masterpiece,” she exclaimed, savoring every bite.
As we enjoyed our meal, the vendor, Señora Elena, approached us with a warm smile and 3 cold beers with small glasses on top of the bottles. “I see you like my tamales,” she said. As she pulled up a chair and sat down then shared a beer with us and offered us her family recipe, passed down from her mother. “It’s simple, but it’s made with love,” she explained. She took a seat at our table, pointing to the small ofrenda she had set up in the market stall. The altar was dedicated to her mother, who had taught her everything she knew about cooking.
We raised our glasses in a toast. “To your mother, and to your wonderful tamales,” I said. Sharing that drink with Elena made the experience even more special. And very typical Chiapan.
Señora Elena’s Recipe for Tamal de Chipilín
Ingredients:
Corn dough (masa)
Fresh chipilín leaves
Corn husks for wrapping
Water or broth
Salt to taste
Instructions:
Soak the corn husks in warm water until they are pliable.
In a large bowl, mix the corn dough with water or broth until it reaches a smooth, spreadable consistency.
Stir in fresh chipilín leaves and salt.
Spread a layer of the dough mixture onto each corn husk.
Fold the husks around the dough to form a tamale.
Steam the tamales for about an hour, or until they are firm and cooked through.
As she with such love she recited the steps, it felt like we were sharing more than just food. We were sharing a piece of her family’s history, steeped in tradition and love.
Enchanting Day of the Dead
As the cool heaviness of night approached, we experienced the magic of the Day of the Dead, celebrated on the 1st and 2nd. The streets and grave yards of Santa Maria burst to life with vibrant altars adorned with marigolds and the golden flicker of thousands of candles, their golden hues reminiscent of Van Gogh’s sunflowers and starry night converged. The festival’s joyous atmosphere reminded me of the exuberance found in Gabriel Garcia Marquez’s novels, where life and death intertwine seamlessly.
Lisa and I were invited to help in setting up ofrendas, or altars, to honor their departed loved ones. The altars, decorated with photos, candles, and favorite foods of the deceased, created a powerful, emotional scene. The air was filled with the rhythm of lively music and dance, creating an unforgettable experience that felt like stepping into an Almodóvar film. His films, such as All About My Mother, often explore themes of family, memory, and vibrant emotions, mirroring the joyous yet solemn atmosphere of the day.
A Tale of a fellow exploring soul
One evening, as we wandered the decorated streets, we met Mohan, a fellow traveler whose six-fingered hand quickly caught our attention as he counted out his money for his pulled chicken street tacos. His emerald green eyes sparkled with insatiable curiosity, reflecting his unique perspective. “What in the hell is all this about?” he asked, with a child like smile as he gesturing to the vibrant altars.
“It’s the Day of the Dead,” Lisa chimed in. “It’s a time when families honor their loved ones who have passed away, celebrating with food, music, and dance. The flowers and ofrendas are symbols of love and remembrance.” She said.
Mohan’s eyes widened with wonder. “It’s beautiful. I’ve never seen anything like it.”
“It truly is,” I added. “And the food is incredible too. You must try the Tamal de Chipilín and Tascalate!”
Mohan, confidently told us his name, meant ‘charmer’, captivated by the vibrant atmosphere and stories we shared, joined us as we continued to explore Santa Maria. Each moment felt like a scene from an art history book, rich in colors and emotions, reminiscent of Frida Kahlo’s paintings. Her work, such as The Two Fridas, captures deep personal pain and vibrant Mexican culture, echoing the emotional depth we felt during the festival. His name ‘charmer’, perfectly fit his engaging and curious nature.
Plan on your journey
Whether you’re eager to try traditional Chiapan dishes or experience the Day of the Dead festival, Santa Maria is a destination that should be on your travel list. This city offers a unique blend of history, culture, and cuisine that promises an unforgettable journey.
Here’s a passage from Gabriel Garcia Marquez’s One Hundred Years of Solitude that resonates with the festival’s theme of life and death:
“Many years later, as he faced the firing squad, Colonel Aureliano Buendía was to remember that distant afternoon when his father took him to discover ice.”
To me his passage captures the sense of memory and the intertwining of life’s moments, much like how the Day of the Dead intertwines celebration with remembrance…
